Some thoughts on Ketchup

I remember the times when my father would hit the bottle. This was back when ketchup came in glass bottles and getting it out of the bottle could be a daunting task, especially if you wanted some with your fries before they got cold. They’ve since been replaced by those new-fangled plastic squeeze bottles, and aside from the nostalgia, most consumers don’t seem to miss the glass ones. However, many restaurants still use the glass bottles. Turning the bottle upside down, Dad would give it some vigorous shakes, then pound the bottom with the heel of his hand. When the contents slowly started trickling downwards, some open palm slapping would ensue until sometimes the thick red sauce would suddenly gush out, practically drowning the food. I don’t think that bothered him too much, having ketchup with his food or food with his ketchup, either was generally okay. The only caveat was that it had to be Heinz Ketchup.

As for the other sort of “bottle”, the most alcohol Dad drank in a year probably wasn’t more than a few glasses of Manischewitz Blackberry wine and a few beers. I never saw him drink beer, but my brother tells me that the two of them would occasionally have a beer together and when they did, Dad always drank Dos Equis. You might recall those ads featuring “The Most Interesting Man in the World” featuring that debonair, distingué looking dude whose ads and tagline proved extremely lucrative for the Dos Equis brand. (Over the decade that the ads ran, sales of Dos Equis tripled.) And his famous tagline was likely to have been originated by my father, according to my brother. It seems that he and Dad were in a Chicago bar one evening where after ordering a Dos Equis, he told my brother, “I don’t always drink beer, but when I do, I prefer Dos Equis.” Perhaps not exactly in those words, but pretty darn close.

To be fair, my father was an interesting guy, but as to being the most interesting man in the world – not exactly. I can’t say he was ever bitten by a rattlesnake, who after five days of excruciating pain, finally died; or caused bikers to walk their motorcycles past his home; nor for that matter, was the life of parties he never attended.

He definitely wasn’t a life of the party type. But I’d be remiss in not mentioning the time he found himself the center of attention at a dinner party held at a trés chic French haute cuisine restaurant. Aside from the hosts, my parents didn’t know the rest of the guests at their table other than that they appeared to be a refined, cultivated and cosmopolitan bunch, quite at ease in such an elegant setting. Following the initial champagne and appetizers, the main course arrived. As the others set about eating, my father called a waiter over and (politely, I’m sure) asked for some ketchup. According to my mother (who would cringe at the memory of this indubitably awkward incident for years to come) the waiter, with a disapproving look on his face rather haughtily informed my father that they did not serve ketchup. If that wasn’t embarrassing enough, there was the added chagrin that his faux pas was witnessed by everyone at the table. On the drive home, my father vehemently denounced snooty, condescending waiters and snooty, egotistical, pretentious chefs, but the experience clearly had a lasting impact. Never again did he dare go to a dinner party or upscale dining establishment without several little packets of Heinz ketchup in his jacket pocket.

Sources differ as to the origin of ketchup or catsup, two different spellings for the same stuff. (The word “catsup” first appears in English in 1690, and “ketchup” in 1711). It may have originated in Vietnam and spread to southeastern China, or vice-versa, but apparently in that part of the world. In its early form, it was a fermented fish sauce called ke-chiap in Hokkien Chinese. Spreading to Thailand and Malaysia, it became known as kecap. British colonists found it was just the thing to spice up their infamously bland diet. At that point in time, ketchup did not contain tomatoes; adding tomatoes was an American invention. Although tomatoes were known in Britain and Europe since the 1500s, most people there thought they were poisonous. In the U.S. recipes for tomato-based ketchup were already available in the early 19th century. At that time, ketchup was homemade or manufactured in small quantities without much quality control. For example, coal tar was used to enhance the red color and sodium benzoate was used as a preservative. In 1876, Henry John Heinz began producing tomato ketchup on a large scale using fully ripe tomatoes and no artificial preservatives. He introduced his iconic glass octagonal bottle in 1890, designed with a narrow opening to minimize discoloration and bacteria from exposure to air.

A number of years ago, I spent several weeks in Karachi, visiting Pakistani friends there. During my stay, I spent time in the kitchen helping with the cooking to the extent I knew what to do. I particularly like pulao, a one-pot dish of rice cooked in a broth with meat and/or vegetables with a delicate, fragrant blend of spices. But when I had made it in the past, it never came out right. During my visit I had the opportunity to get more instruction on making this dish; blending the spices, cooking the rice properly, etc. When I returned to the states, I decided to make it for my parents. I knew they wouldn’t like anything hot and spicy, and a savory pulao seemed just the thing. I used a careful blend of seasoning simmered with an aromatic basmati rice, meat and vegetables. When I tasted the finished product, voilá! It was really good, if I say so myself. My mother tried it and definitely liked it. As for Dad, he took a few tentative bites, got up from the table and returned holding a bottle of ketchup (Heinz of course). I was appalled. He wouldn’t do that, I thought. But he did, and I had to watch helplessly as he poured a substantial amount of the stuff over my great culinary achievement. I didn’t say anything, but he was certainly reading my thoughts when he said, rather defensively, “What? I just thought it needs some ketchup.”

I didn’t come across any books with much about ketchup, but after all, ketchup is a condiment, and the publications below impressed me with the amazing range and diversity of that overly generalized term.

Pam Corbin, River Cottage Preserves Handbook

In this new addition to the award-winning collection, River Cottage master preserver Pam Corbin helps you transform the abundance of your garden (and your friends' and neighbors' gardens) into everything from jams and jellies to vinegars and sauces.

Adam Fleischman, Flavor Bombs: The Umani Ingredients That Make Taste Explode

The self-taught cook and restaurateur explains how to use flavor principles and such ordinary ingredients, as parmesan, tomatoes, and caramelized onions, to ratchet up the flavor of any dish, with recipes illustrating the techniques.

Diana Henry, Salt Sugar Smoke: How to Preserve Fruit, Vegetables, Meat and Fish

This comprehensive book takes a fresh look at preserving, offering all the basic information you need. There are sections filled with expert advice on choosing ingredients and cooking every type of preserve, from marmalades to jellies to relishes to foods preserved in oil.

Carol Ann Rinzler, The New Complete Book of Herbs, Spices, & Condiments: A Nutritional, Medical, and Culinary Guide

A wealth of information concerning herbs has appeared in the past decade, and herbal remedies and foods have become more popular than ever. The New Complete Book of Herbs, Spices & Condiments offers a unique way of looking at these seasonings.

Marcus Samuelsson, New American Table

Acclaimed for the distinct and diverse cuisine he has created at Aquavit and Riingo, Samuelsson shares more than 300 recipes that embody the uniquely inclusive spirit of American cuisine, from high-end fare to street food; down-home Southern cooking to Southwestern flavors to Asian cuisines, and beyond.

Amy Zitelman, The Tahini Table: Go Beyond Hummus with 100 Recipes for Every Meal

The Tahini Table reveals tahini as a versatile, healthy, and delicious addition to any kitchen, with more than 100 recipes for snacks, dinners, desserts, and more.

- by Elka Frankel, West Windsor Branch